There have been many fashion houses throughout the history of fashion, however the Paris couture house Callot sisters was one that became very popular in the 1900's because of its luxurious designs. It first opened in 1985 and was operated by four sisters, Marie Gerber, Marthe Bertrand, Regine Tennyson-Chantrelle and Josephine Crimont.  The sisters were all very artistic since they came from a mother who was a talented lace maker and a father who was an artist that came from a family of lace makers and engravers.

Callot Sisters 1985-1937

The sisters were all interested in dressmaking at a young age because of the influence of their parents. The eldest sister Marie was trained in dressmaking and the rest of the sisters were taught by their mother. They began working with antique laces and ribbons to enhance different garments. This talent led to the success of their couture house. Before opening the house, the sisters owned a shop that sold antique lace, ribbons and lingerie which is where the practiced and received their inspirations.

The Callot Sisters Couture House

The couture house was located on Rue Taitbout in Paris, France. The décor of the sisters salon reflected the Orient and eighteenth-century rococo design which is why they welcomed their customers in a Chinese style room which was decorated with dynasty silks and Louis XV furniture. They carried daywear, tailored suits and evening dresses in their salon but they were best known for their exotic evening dress influenced by the East. The couture house became very famous rapidly because they took part in the Paris Exposition Universelle, which displayed dresses along respected designers at the time such as Doucet and Paquin.  By the 1900’s the sisters were employing over 600 workers and had clientele in Europe and America. The Callot sisters were one of the first designers to use gold and silver lame to make dresses and this gave their clothing an exotic detail.

"Simple clothing with wonderful embroidery"

Printed silk voile embroidered with sequins and glass bugle beads, and trimmed with lace

The Callot sister’s evening gowns featured styles from the eighteenth century which included tightly corseted waists, wide hoop skirts, and floral designs. Their gowns were made from pastel coloured tulle and brocades. During the 1910’s the sister’s dresses became very popular with actresses and high society women.  Although the sisters were known for their exotic look they also encompassed techniques that came from Africa and Asia. The sisters would take different elements from the two continents and design it into one garment.  The sisters liked using fauvist colours and rich Eastern colours when they designed their Asian influenced garments.

1923  Evening dress made with Silk, metal and Pearl

1913 Evening Dress made of Silk, Jet

Not only did the Callot sisters design dresses but they were also known for their capes and daywear clothes. The capes that were created by the sisters became very popular and were much admired by the people.  In 1916 they introduced their collection of capes which were made out of silks and metal threads of different colours.



Vest Designed by Madame Gerber 1910 

1911 Evening Dress

  As for their day clothes the Callot sisters introduced tea gowns that were mostly made out of silk and chiffon. In 1914 the sisters introduced a new and different style called the shirtwaist dress. This dress became very popular and fashionable at this time.

                                                                                     1913

The Callot sisters had a reputation for their detailed work. They set very high standards which is why they were successful with their couture house. In 1914 the Callot Sisters became involved with a group called the Le Syndicat de Defense de la Grande couture Francaise. This group was made to ensure that rules were set in place so that their original designs were protected from copy houses that were selling their garments without permission.

The Callot sisters were known for the dresses but they had a wide variety of garments. Their collections also included handbags and coats.

1910-1915 Linen/Silk Bag

                                                             1910-1915 Linen/Silk Bag

                                                         1908-1910 Evening coat made of silk

                                                 1920 Jacket made of silk and fur

Although the Callot Sisters were very popular with the opening of their Couture house by 1926 the House of Callot began to decline.  The sisters could not compete with the new clothes made by designers such as Chanel and because of this their designs no longer appealed to the modern career woman.  In 1928, the eldest Callot sister, Madam Gerber decided to let her son Pierre take over the business. In 1937 when Madam Gerber decided to retire,  the House of Callot became part of the House of Calvet which constantly expanded and today is still known for its popular bags and luggage.  Unfortunately most of the Callot designs are forgotten however they are still popular with collectors and are very expensive.

                                                                            Work Cited

Fashion 1900. Callot Soeurs.
http://www.victoriana.com/GazetteduBonTon/designerdresses.html

Clothing and Fashion Encyclopedia. Callot Sisters. 2010.
http://angelasancartier.net/callot-sisters

The Metropolitan Museum of  Art. Callot Soeurs.
http://www.metmuseum.org/collections/search-the-collections/80093745?pkgids=63

Callot Sisters History of Fashion. A leading fashion house in the history of fashion. 2011
http://www.fashioncollections.org/history-of-fashion/callot-sisters-history-fashion/

Fashion Designers. The Callot Sisters.
http://jewelryaccessories.com/fashion-designers/334-callot-sisters.html